The southern end of the island has been shaped by repeated volcanic eruptions. Because it is so young geologically there are no cliffs or ravines here. The territory, once the pre-hspanic canton of Abenguareme, is today bordered by Mazo, El Paso and Los Llanos de Aridane.
Fuencaliente contains the villages of Las Caletas, Los Quemados, Las Indias, la Fajana, El Charco and Los Canarios (which got its name from the great number of natives exiled here after all the good land was divided up after the conquest.)
There was a time when the municipality's inhabitants ' main occupation was that of herding sheep and goats. The lack of water and the poor, stony soil discouraged planting crops ; nevertheless, vineyards, once adapted to droughts, started to dot the black fields with the seasonal sparkle of their leaves: now green, now golden. And today, irrigated banana plantations stretch along the coastline, and agriculture has become the main source of income together with that from tourists, who visit Fuencaliente attracted by its rare geological beauty.
This borough, which was linked to Mazo until 1832, also suffered from the migration of its people; Las Indias (The Indies) was the last inhabited place people passed through before boarding the ships that sailed for America.
FUENTE SANTA and its legend
As long ago as the 18th century rumours circulated of a lost hot spring, somewhere near Punta Malpique on the coast. According to the legend, the waters of this spring were rich in sulphur and several other minerals. People came from every corner of the i sland to drink its waters and bathe in them, because there were said to cure skin diseases, including leprosy.
Fuencaliente, the name of the borough, means "Hot Spring". The spring itself was called the Fuente Santa, or "Holy Spring" after its miraculous, healing proprieties. But the Fuente Santa was buried under the lava which poured out from the San Antonio volcano back in 1677. People have searched for it eagerly ever since. Recently the most so ph isticated technologies have been used and, finally, the spring has been found.
BELIEFS which emerged between darkness and superstition
Superstition and fear of the unknown always surrounded the lives of Fuencaliente's people at a time when the lack of material things encouraged belief in immaterial phenomena. The local lore went that on the last day of December, on St Sylvester's day, witches and demons went through the threshold which separated the old from the new year. Men and women invoked protection by reciting spells and praying to St Sylvester:
"St Sylvester, St Sylvester, protect my land and my home from witches, sorcerers , and evildoers ."
The volcanic tube of La Cueva de Los Palmeros also encouraged stories. It was said that its darkness hid evil creatures who were lost in its depths , and there's an old goatherd's saying that " a kid went into the tube which came out as a billy goat", thus referring to the enormous length of the tube .
TRADITIONS with a scent of sulphur and a taste of wine
The natives ' lives have revolved around the growing of vines, the virtues of which were already praised by merchants, sailors and adventurers as far back as the 16th century.
The vines thrust their roots into this land so punished by fire. The old bare stems are pruned in February in order to strengthen the stock, and the new growth soon sprouts . The young buds are preserved from possible d i seases with sulphur powder. Then they are either tied down to the ground -in windswept areas - or they are lifted up with the help of pitchforks -in the so-called arenales , or sandy areas -, to support the stems where the bunches of grapes will slowly grow and ripen under the bright sunshine. At harvest time, peasants work side by side, first picking the fruit, then carrying baskets full of grapes to the wine-press.
The end of the harvest turns into a celebration, a gathering of young and old people, men and women who rejoice over traditional dishes.
The juice is then left to ferment in casks located in cool wine-cellars . After a number a months the most demanding connoisseurs will test the new vintage for its colour, its scent, and its taste. Nowadays, Fuencaliente's cellars have an excellent and exclusive variety of wines on offer , among which the malvasía stands out as a jewel among wines. The vines, which can only survive in Llano Negro, some 450 meters above sea level, produce a sweet wine best tasted as an appetizer or as the delicious finishing touch of a good meal.
FESTIVITIES and cheerful pilgrimages
On January 17th Fuencaliente celebrates San Antonio Abad's feast day, but this is only the first of a series of festivities, and certainly not the most splendid. At the end of Augus t, the Fiesta de la Vendimia (the Harvest Festival) is offered in the p atron s aint's honour and is the borough's most charismatic celebration, one pervaded by a pagan spirit which allows tradition and superstition to blend in this hostile environment. The grateful peasant gives thanks for the abundance of the harvest, without which the forthcoming year would be harder to face. The most outstanding events are the Danza de Las Viejas Solteras (the Old Spinsters ' Dance), and Baile de Los Caballos Fuscos (the Dark Horses' Dance), the latter , danced to a polka , entertains us with the magic transformation of men into biped centaurs made out of paper, fabric and cane. The traditional pilgrimage offers the visitors various foods and excellent wines. Other noteworthy festivities are July 16 th in Punta Larga, where they take the statue of the Virgen del Carmen out in a sailing procession ; and the pilgrimage of Pino de La Virgen, in August.
On Christmas Eve midnight mass is truly memorable: Christmas carols are sung, while shepherds dance and present the Holy Child with their gifts to the rhythm of flutes, drums and castanets.
GASTRONOMY
An attractive menu might be fresh local fish, papas arrugadas (potatoes boiled in their skin with plenty of salt) , mojo (garlic and herb sauce), gofio (roasted grain flour usually served as a stiff dough ) and goat cheese , together with a local wine.
The local confection e ry enjoys a well-deserved fame, particularly the almond biscuits ( almendrados ), rapaduras de gofio (gofio and honey moulded as a pyramid), praline, raisins and the traditional rye roll.
SUGGESTIONS
One of the most iconic excursions of the i sland is the Volcanoes Trail ( " La Ruta de Los Volcanes " ) , which starts from Refugio del Pilar and makes its way up to the summit of Birigoyo, at a height of 1,800 meters above sea level. From here one can see almost the whole island except for the north, which hides away behind the sheer cliffs of La Caldera.
The path continues right along the spine of the island to Los Canarios, passing among craters, through stone rivers and areas of volcanic sand. Here fragile ecosystems cling to the ground in their fight for survival. As the visitor walks along, he or she will discover a magic world. Then the path descends to Volcán de San Antonio, Los Quemados, Vocán de Teneguía, and finishes at the lighthouse (El Faro.)
As a counterpoint to the former trip we propose travelling the coastal path, either on foot or by mountain bike. This route sets off from the centre of Los Canarios and goes down to Las Caletas, then passes through the black lava of El Búcaro down to E l P uertito ( the little harbour), where long ago lupins or chochos were soaked in the rock pools and put to dry by the mareteros (those who earned their living by doing so).
Nautical sports -such as sailing, diving...- and paragliding , camel-riding and so forth, are some other suggestions to take into account.
INTERESTING PLACES
Roque de Teneguía
The Roque de Teneguía is much older than the lava flows which have buried the surrounding landscape. Today the pale rock stands proud, unmoved by the endless trade winds. Before the conquest, the aborigine population came here to approach their gods. Its surface is embellished by the curvilinear engravings typical of the old people of A wara.
Cumbre Vieja
The boroughs of El Paso, Mazo and Fuencaliente rise up to the mountain ridge known as Cumbre Vieja -old ridge-. The rough landscape here was formed by a series of volcanic eruptions: San Martín (1646), San Antonio (1677), El Charco (1712), San Juan (1949) and Teneguía (1971). These have created huge lava fields where the passing of the seasons leaves scarcely a trace.
Despite its name, this awesome landscape is the youngest part of the island. After an eruption plants slowly colonise the lava flows , which are also inhabited by grasshoppers, beetles and lizards.
Teneguía Volcano
E arthquakes announced the formation of this impressive and beautiful natural monument. Back in 1971, the Volcán de Teneguía spat the bowels of the earth through its cones, from which the lava ran downhill all the way to the sea, which enlarged the area of the i sland. It created a landscape born out of fire. The heat from the centre of the earth still escapes from hidden vents, scenting the air with sulphur. This last Spanish eruption of the millennium is sure to go down in history.
San Antonio Volcano
T he San Antonio volcano, which erupted in the 17 th century, lies within walking distance of town. Smooth curves define the silhouette of one of the most beautiful cones of the i sland, an unmissable sight of great natural beauty.
A walk along the edge of the crater offers the visitor the opportunity to enjoy some of the borough's finest views, including the Roque and Volcán de Teneguía.
The town's inhabitants, as though it were a tale, live fearlessly together with this dormant red-hearted, black-faced giant.
Las Indias Viewpoint
This viewpoint is located by the main road more than 750 meters above sea level. From this tree-shaded , natural veranda the visitor will be able to gaze at the faraway cliff of El Time, so very different from Fuencaliente's low and rocky coastline.
Further down, Los Quemados and Las Indias live facing the sea, always turning their backs on the pine woods -an ever green coat that covers the steep mountain almost up to the ridge.
On clear days La Gomera, Tenerife and El Hierro can be seen drifting away in the blue vastness of the ocean.
The Lighthouse ( El Faro )
The old lighthouse stands out in the southernmost tip of La Palma. Its tower was built of basalt at the end of the 19th century, and it is considered to be an architectural landmark of the l ocal h eritage. Not far from it there is a jetty where fishing boats look for shelter whenever there is a spell of rough weather. The lighthouse's flashing light no longer guides shipping ; but it will soon become a sea museum ( Museo del Mar ) as well as a regional information centre ( Centro de Información Comarcal ).
The Salt Works
At the southernmost tip of the island, where the ground falls away steeply to the coast , the sea unceasingly crashes against the dark shoreline and the wind howls : there lie the salt works . Dozens of salt heaps slowly grow as the sun evaporates in sea water in the shallow pools till the salt crystals emerge.
This craft industry uses no machinery and create no pollution. Indeed , it is one link of an ecological chain, and it is protected by UNESCO.
La Zamora Beach
Several beaches lie along Fuencaliente's coastline. La Zamora, west of El Faro, is the most popular. It hides below a shallow cliff and is sheltered by a number of rocks out to sea.
Its warm and clean water beats on the deep-black, volcanic sand. On diving, the visitor will be able to appreciate the charms of the underwater lava and the ecosystems which lie below the surface of the sea.
The Church of San Antonio Abad
The church of San Antonio Abad can be found in the rural landscape of Los Canarios, just below the pine wood . This architectural landmark made of a single nave, dates from the 16 th century. Its stone belfry embellishes the façade which was built in the purest M udejar (Moorish) style. A beautiful pictorial sample can be seen on the presbytery walls, where frescos dating from 1904 enrich the cultural heritage of Fuencaliente.
Pino de La Virgen
The legendary pine tree stands proudly in the woods, five kilometres from Los Canarios. Its resinous heart, in which the image of the Virgin is zealously kept, oozes out the blood that gives it life. As though they were arms, the branches protect the small image which is the centre of a pilgrimage that takes place on the second Sunday of August.
The visitor will be able to find this site by following the dirt track which winds into this resin-scented forest.
Los Roques Spring Recreation Ground
Like a perennial green blanket over the mountains, the Canary Pine tree, which sprouts fresh growth after all but the most devastating fires, can also live on arid volcanic ground. Beautiful , strong trees lavish generous shade over the recreational site , which is equipped with the basic infrastructure. A modest spring named after the high rocks that surround it, though not embellished by romantic legends, quenches the thirst of the many visitors who decide to spend a pleasant day here.
The Craft Centre (Centro de Artesanía)
The Handicraft Centre stands on the main road which passes through Los Canarios, along with most of the local businesses, making it easily accessible.
This selling point exhibits the traditional handicrafts, made with skill and determination. The display includes a wide variety of local products, ranging from crochet work, knitted woollen fabric, or traperas (woven rag rugs ) to the delicate braided thread found in macramé works, not to forget baskets, hampers and a huge number of other articles. Embroidery deserves a special mention , for its fine flowers, leaves, initials... formed daintily after hundreds of meticulous stitches put in the loops, festoons, embossing and cut-outs which gracefully adorn the traditional trousseaux .
The art of making barrels is closely bound to the cultivation of vines and wine-making. Nowadays it has almost died out, but it was very important here during the 16 th century due to the high production of malvasía - the sweet wine so much praised by Shakespeare and desired by his countrymen.
Copyright. Asociación para el Desarrollo Rural de la Isla de La Palma ( ADER-La Palma ).
(Association for the Rural Development of the Island of La Palma)
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