This corner of the i sland, located to the north-east , extends from the shoreline to the mountain ridge over an area of 43-square-kilometres . The boundaries with the neighbouring boroughs -San Andrés y Sauces ( of which it was a part until 1678), and Garafía - are set by the ravines known as La Herradura (to the south) and Gallegos (to the north). Its location favours the abundance of clouds, which water the abundant vegetation and fill the aquifers .
Before the arrival of the Spanish colonizers, this territory used to be known as Tagarabre The livestock farming activity of the i sland's aborigines gave way to the division of the land for agriculture by the newcomers. Crops such as sugar-cane, vines and cereals were introduced throughout the centuries. But the recurrent water shortage caused periods of crisis that forced many inhabitants to emigrate to either Cuba or in Venezuela in search of a better life. This important exodus decreased the i sland's population, but some islanders came home rich, and invested their fortunes in lands that had belonged to a minority of rich landowners until the previous century . These entrepreneurial people changed the economic scene: new roads broke the isolation of numerous villages and water-mines were excavated to find the necessary water to make agriculture profitable . Today, b anana plantations, potatoes, avocados, citrus fruits ... constitute the foundation of the local economy, a lthough tourists are increasingly attracted to the Region's natural beauty.


ANCIENT baladeros (bleatyards) and legendary bailaderos (or witches' dance floors)

In times of severe drought before the Spanish conquest, the island's goatherds used to lead their animals to flat, high places. There, they would separate the young kids from their mothers and deprive them of food for several days. The desperate bleating of the kids would sound like the wails and yells of people clamouring desperately for life-giving rain.

Barlovento is the only borough which has two of these bleatyards. At one time they were also called bailaderos, which sounds very similar, but which means a place for dancing. Superstitious people believed that witches used these magical places to dance under the open sky during the celebration of their black sabbaths.

Traditional trades in the cloud forest

The commercial exploitation of the damp northern forests is part of the history of the b oroug h. P eople have always been able to make a living from this natural resource , which centuries ago was regularly attacked by the axes of those who were seeking to survive. As this was illegal, it was carried out furtively . T he heavy trunks were dragged dow n the steep hillsides to the coast, w h ere they were loaded onto ships for export .
Woodcutters and charcoal-burners still survive in th is wild landscape as a reminder of what were once very traditional trades, but the smoky kilns meticulously made long ago by charcoal-burners are becoming increasingly rare. After felling the trees, they covered the timber with earth and manure , and then burnt it for several days till it turned into the prized charcoal. Sometimes you can see bundles of various kinds of poles and pitchforks meant for different purposes huddle d by the roads as though they were just another element of this eminently rural land. Above the village of Gallegos , old tar kilns are still to be seen; there, pine resin was boiled and then used to caulk ships, making a watertight seal between the timbers.
Paradoxically, the biggest pine of the i sland grows here; as years go by, new rings encircle the centennial trunk of the well-known Pino Machín.

FESTIVITIES - historical memories

The festivity concept has changed over the years; salt collecting, or cooperating in the farming tasks in exchange for a copious meal (gallofa), was once considered enough reason to celebrate . On such occasions people sang and danced to folk songs : Serinoque, cho Juan Perenal or the Caringa – which came from Cuba.
In Barlovento, the celebration, on May 5th( ¿o dia 3? ), of the Festival of the Cross is specially interesting. I n Gallegos, the women carry the Cross in a procession. In Las Cabezadas, they decorate the crosse s and a big luncheon is organized near La Laguna de Barlovento. Years ago, people took the image of San Isidro in a procession through the countryside pray for rain and a good cereal crop.
August 23rd, the feast of the Virgen de La Caridad del Cobre , (the copper Virgin of Charity ) Cuba's Patron Saint, is a big celebration in Gallegos since 1959.
But the most important festivity of all is that celebrated to honour the Virgin of the Rosary (Virgen del Rosario) , also in August. Every two years they re-enact the the victory of the Christians over the Ottoman Turks at the Battle of Lepanto (Italian name of the Greek port of Naupaktos) , amidst the roar of cannons and a strong smell of gunpowder. The Virgin of the Rosary was the protector of the Spanish expedition in this naval battle. The exchange of fire between the ships and the castle give s us a personal view of that historical event.

SUGGESTIONS

A multicoloured world is waiting to be discovered in Barlovento. Under the thick green coat that covers its ridges, slopes and ravines , lies a network of paths which have been used since pre-Hispanic times.

The moist trade winds bring water, which flows from numerous springs which sprinkle the region, and the refreshing coolness wraps the deep ravines which chisel the land like deep scars, in which humans are a recent addition.

No doubt the beauty of the r egion's landscape is its greatest charm, and the best way of getting to know it is to trekking. We recommend a walk that starts in town and goes through the different villages - La Tosca , Topaciegas, La Palmita- as far as Gallegos ( which was once Barlovento's most populated village ).
As an alternative, consider strolling from Barranco de La Herradura to La Laguna de Barlovento - running along a narrow road that goes through Las Cabezadas.
Last but not least, for those who like a challenge, we suggest the hike from the mountain ridge at Lomo de Las Cebollas, winding down a steep track as far as Los Llanos de Gallegos; this route can also be covered by mountain - bike.

SITES OF INTEREST

The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary ( Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario )

Once there was a crossroads, where peasants carrying their farming product to the different hamlets rested, chatted and bartered goods. The town of Barlovento grew around this crossroads on the damp and windy northern slope of the island The most notable building is the church of Our Lady of the Rosary, ( Nuestra Señora del Rosario) The building , which was begun in 1581 and enlarged during the XVII th century, has an only one large nave , whose upper end is marked out by a red tuff arch; a fine altarpiece shelters the Flemish carving of the Virgen del Rosario. Other artistic treasures, such as the M exican XVI th -century crucifix or the baroque c arving of La Virgen del Carmen, enrich the Temple's cultural heritage . Its glazed clay font stands under the choir, and in its belfry hang bells brought from a Cuban sugar mill, which playfully strike the hours.

Mirador de La Tosca

Very near the town the visitor will find the magnificent viewpoint called La Tosca , which has a spectacular view of deep ravines and sharp ridges running down to the cliffs of the wild northern coastline. Villages, including Gallegos, La Palmita , Topaciegas and La Tosca , are scattered on a landscape which isolated them, and so preserved their traditions.

At the foot of the viewpoint lies a copse of old dragon trees mingled with a group of stone houses.
The trees ' sap was much coveted in olden times due to its therapeutic proprieties; their green treetops were used as fodder , or as material for handicraft s. Visitors to this picturesque spot marvel at the size of these trees, so representative of the island.

Las Mimbreras Spring.

The Fuente de Las Mimbreras, or the Mimbreras spring, can be found on the old road that stretches between Garafía and Barlovento. Its pure , fresh water flows within the deep shade of the thick laurisilva forest. Bay laurels , Persea indica ( viñátigos ) , Picconia excelsa ( palos blancos ) and osiers (mimbreras) grow tall amidst moss-covered stones.
A small recreational site provided with tables and barbecue grills lies by the spring. This is a handsome spot break your journey and enjoy a luxuriant natural environment.

Punta Cumplida Lighthouse

On La Palma's northernmost point, the Punta Cumplida lighthouse has lit countless pitch-dark nights since 1867, although its stone tower and optics have been remodelled. The lighthouse keeper climbed its winding staircase to the very top of the tower; from there, he attentively watched the skyline while the sea dashed against the rocks below him with a deafening uproar.
A great many stories have been told throughout the years: it is said that the old lighthouse witnessed the presence of German and American submarines during World War II. At one time, it even worked using olive oil and paraffin as fuel. Today, in the XXI st century, it still guides shipping as conscientiously as ever.

The coast and La Fajana Swimming Pools

With the salt-laden breeze stroking his face, the visitor will be able to admire Barlovento's beachless coast, full as it is of contrast . Between Oropesa and Gallegos, the pounding of the waves has created impressive cliffs which raise up some two-hundred metres from the sea level; however, the coastline softens between Punta Cumplida and La Caleta de Talavera. This as an old natural inlet from which ships loaded with fruit sailed for America well into the 20 th century. This and the Porís de Gallegos (Gallegos' jetty) have traditionally been the Region's only sea ports .
Punta Cumplida -or Punta del Engaño- is dominated by the lighthouse; not far from it, the traveller will find the Fajana's seawater swimming-pools. Long ago the b orough's inhabitants used to soak flax in the natural pools there existed here; at present, though, they have been turned into a le i sure area. Visitors will also be able to camp.

La Laguna de Barlovento.

In the upper area of the i sland's windiest borough lies its biggest reservoir . A modern waterproof system permits the storage of five million cubic metres of water. The clay soils of an ancient crater used to get flooded in rainy winters, hence the name Laguna, which means "lake".
A big recreational site lies nearby , provided with the necessary infrastructure to make the visitor feel comfortable: roofed barbecue grills, tables and benches, children's playground, toilets... everything to make it a delightful spot to spend the day , or camp amidst its winding paths , and open spaces which have been reforested with native species . From its viewpoint , the visitor will be able to enjoy the beautiful scenes of the b orough's coast and green mountains.

Las Mimbreras Craft Centre

The soul and traditions of a people are best shown among craftsmen of different guilds, who have always known how to take full advantage of their environment. Thus, place-names such as Las Mimbreras, or osiers, testify to the presence of certain raw materials which have traditionally been used. Osier grows in damp areas amidst Monteverde , or greenwood; its long and thin twigs, once cut, are patiently entwined and turned into a range of wickerwork , from sewing "cases" to big, strong baskets used for carrying manure. Osier, dragon tree leaves and rye have always been the main raw materials used in basketworks which would then be employed in farming tasks.
Looms were also commonplace, for they constituted just another piece of furniture. Women wove wool and linen as well as the traditional colourful traperas ( woven rags which is then used as, for example, bed covers).
Las Mimbreras Craft Centre Occupies small premises, situated at La Laguna de Barlovento. It exhibits and sells delicate embroidery, crochet and macramé, pottery, woodwork , papercrafts -traditional in Venezuela-, and a full array of other handicraft products, which mix skill and art.

Copyright. Asociación para el Desarrollo Rural de la Isla de La Palma ( ADER-La Palma ). (Association for the Rural Development of the Island of La Palma ).