
 |
El Paso, the largest municipality
of La Palma, is located in the west of the island extending
135 sq. km over the upper region of the Valle de Aridane
valley and the Caldera de Taburiente crater. It borders
all other municipalities of the island with the exception
of Tazacorte and is the only municipality which does
not touch the coast.
Surrounded by the great masses that are Bejenado, Cumbre Nueva and part of Cumbre
Vieja, the relief is a great expanse of rocky ground and lava fields of more
or less recent formation that have traditionally been dedicated to dry farming,
pasture and forestry.
The upper district of the Valle de Aridane valley is the highest point of the
island that the aborigine people were known to inhabit. This indicates the importance
to these people of the use of vegetation for pasture grazing when choosing a
place to settle.
From the XVI century onwards, the new European colonists settled in the lower
regions of the valley, exploiting forestry resources of the woodland and ploughing
more and more land especially the lava fields. To make use of arable land they
patiently gathered all the stones from their land, forming the spectacular majanos
(piles of stone in a pyramid shape) and walls that are so characteristic of Llano
de Las Cuevas plain. The majority of this ploughing of the land took place in
the first quarter of the XIX century.
The city of El Paso is situated on the mountain road connecting Los Llanos and
Tazacorte with the capital and it is from this that it gets its name (El Paso
or the pass). It belonged to the jurisdiction of Valle de Aridane until 1837
when it got its independence. El Paso was given the official title of villa in
1878 and of city in 1910.
Today, with a growing population and a strong cultural tradition, the municipality
of El Paso is at the forefront of economic, agrarian and industrial development.
 |
FESTIVITIES
The two most important events in El Paso's festive calendar are that of the Sagrado
Corazón (Sacred Heart) and El Pino (the Pine). Although these celebrations
are closely linked to their protagonists, they are open to all.
Fifteen days after Corpus Christi, the streets of the city are adorned with carpets,
tapestries and arches covered in elaborate decorations, flowers and seeds to
greet the statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in the procession.
On the first Sunday of September everyone gathers at the chapel of the Virgen
del Pino to pay homage to the mother of God, amid religious celebrations, traditional
festivities and picnics under the pine trees.
Every three years in the months of August and September, the virgin descends
in a pilgrimage to the church of Nuestra Señora de Bonanza, accompanied
by decorated carts and pilgrims in traditional dress.
SUGGESTIONS
The silk tradition
Silk has had a long history in the distant land of China, where it was considered
a symbol of power and prestige by those using this fine fabric to make garments,
kites or as a support for beautiful works of art. In the past these were transported
by camel from the capital Chang-ngan itself to the Mediterranean. Sea transport
made trade possible with the Old Continent where all the secrets of silk raising
were sought after.
Emperors and aristocrats wore this silk which was soon to become fashionable
with silk production spreading worldwide. It arrived to the Canaries after
the Conquest as the Spanish, Andalusians and Portuguese brought with them the
textile techniques of that time. Between the XVI and XVIII centuries, La Palma
became an important centre for silk production. Later this totally hand-worked
craft began to decline and the craft was kept alive only in the municipality
of El Paso. In the XX century, official bodies supported and revitalised this
craft, which is included by UNESCO and the Council of Europe in the worldwide
Silk Route programme.
The caterpillar takes between four and five weeks to produce the cocoon for
the pupas, which live there until they change into butterflies. The natural
cycle is interrupted by introducing the cocoons into hot water to soften the
filament and to stop the butterfly biting through the cocoon to get out and
thus breaking the fine threads.
The thread is then spun slowly on the old spinning wheel in the traditional
manner producing the soft and delicate skeins which are dyed with natural colours
of almond shells, nuts, cochineal, eucalyptus... Finally the loom turns this
product into handkerchiefs, cravats and headscarves that come into our hands
thanks to this attempt at maintaining such an ancestral tradition.
 |
The
Legend of the Two Tree Heaths
Many centuries ago twin brothers lived near the wood in Barranco de Hermosilla.
Orphans since they were children, they were brought up by a sad man, honourable
but shy, who was later to become a priest. He constantly tormented the twins
saying, "the sins of our parents are passed on to the children...".
The children, dedicated to their livestock, slowly grew into men and one night
they heard cries amidst the whispering wind. One of the twins went outside to
investigate and returned with a beautiful young woman who had fainted in her
attempts to find the path by night. The girl captivated the hearts of both brothers
with her charm and in the morning left to return home...
The priest, realising how the brothers felt, told them of the true tragedy that
had befallen them. He told of how two brothers fell in love with the same woman.
The woman chose one of the brothers throwing the other into a vicious rage. He
then killed his own brother on his wedding night and took the young woman who
fell pregnant with twins who were "you boys...".
History repeated itself. The boy who was not chosen became increasingly jealous
and after the wedding ceremony the brothers began to fight, both losing their
lives. So lost, the woman cried inconsolably at the old priest's side and two
blooming tree heaths grew on the spot where the battle had taken place. These
trees, known as "the two brothers", lived for centuries until they were burnt
down by a fire in 1860.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Caldera de Taburiente crater
Extending over 4,690 hectares, the Caldera de Taburiente National Park is an
enormous crater 8 km in diameter which was carved out over thousands of years
by a process of erosion.
The steep slopes mark landscapes colonised by Canary Islands pine and fed by
the constant flow of water from its springs and galleries, which give rise
to numerous waterfalls.
The steep cliffs are the keepsafe of geological secrets such as the pillow
lava which form part of the ancient basal rock strata, basalt dykes, outcrops
and ancient shafts.
When you visit the interior of this protected area, the sky is high above and
you feel as though consumed by this place where time passes slowly.
Visitors' centre
Descending from the mountaintops towards El Paso, you come across a modern
building which houses the Caldera de Taburiente visitors' centre. It is a reference
centre for visitors who want to find out all kinds of information about the
National Park. This is where camping permits are issued and information is
available on different trips around the park.
Information on geology, flora and fauna is provided with pictures which explain,
in a practical and educational manner, how the island was formed and which
species form part of the ecosystems in this protected area. There is a charming
little library and souvenir shop in the centre.
La Cumbrecita scenic viewpoint
Beside the visitors' centre is the turn off for the scenic lookout of Mirador
de La Cumbrecita. This lookout with its excellent views of the Caldera Park
receives many visitors as you can get there by car.
From there a trail leads up to Lomo de Las Chozas, a natural balcony with panoramic
views of the bluish cliffs at the bottom of Barranco de Las Angustias. Magnificent
basalt needles jut up into the sky and in the distance in the middle of the
pine the outline of Roque Idafe is visible. This was a sacred place for the
ancient Awaras where the entrails of animals were offered up to the rock in
order that it would not fall and destroy their culture.
The Pine of the Virgin
Between the mountaintops that protect El Paso from the north winds and the summit
of Pico Bejenado, the local people see the silhouette of a great sleeping giant.
At his feet lie broad expanses of landscape with forgotten cultivated areas,
old livestock tracks and heaps of stone between the almond and chestnut trees.
It often happens in this place that a huge wave of humid clouds spills out over
the relief of this warmer slope which dries them causing them to disappear.
El Paso is described as a place with impossible mountains where one day Our Lady
is said to have appeared in a large pine tree. The conifer served as a sanctuary
for her and gave the virgin her name. The modest chapel was built in 1876 and
it is said that during the construction a branch of the great tree was cut and
spilled blood. The greatness of this tree was much revered and today it stands
as one of the oldest trees of its kind in the island.
La Fajana Rock-carvings
Descending by Hermosilla along a narrow roadway which runs between El Paso and
Los Llanos, we come across the turn off to La Fajana. A sacred space for the
Awaras who, with great dedication and difficulty, carved the hard basalt. Solar
forms can be seen in the carvings; the sun was known as Abora that lit up the
sky each day. The cave paintings are situated at the edge of the cliff, their
original forms display the sunset and the rituals carried out by these native
people to the gods of nature.
 |
San
Juan Volcano
Over a period of thousands of years the volcanoes have carved out the profile
of the island of La Palma. The rugged and wild beauty of the volcanic landscape
has left a deep impression on the municipality of El Paso. Here there were eruptions
such as those of Tacande, Tajuya, El Charco and San Juan. All of them form part
of the Cumbre Vieja Nature Park which extends over 7,500 hectares.
The molten materials hurled out from the craters spilled out over the countryside
where earth tremors, clouds of smoke, forest fires, ash rain, intense smells
of sulphur, and collective panic are symptoms that a volcano is active. This
is how the people who trembled with fear remember the eruption of San Juan in
1949. Its black lava spilled down the mountainside increasing the size of the
island by a few hectares in Las Hoyas and Puerto Naos.
Chapel of Nuestra Señora de Bonanza
The Bejenado massif majestically overlooks the town of El Paso, with its country
houses and gardens preserved in the traditional style. Like a great needle jutting
up into the sky is the tower of the recently built church which is close to the
chapel of Nuestra Señora de Bonanza.
This unique and beautiful sanctuary deserves a special mention for the very detailed
work in the geometric designs on the walls. The architectural style is repeated
in the façade of the small open balcony above the doorway. Three bells
are housed in the belfry high up on the top of this unique building.
Inside, rafters reinforce the roofs that give shelter to the Virgin of Bonanza.
The plaza which surrounds the chapel is decorated with colourful flowers during
the festival of the Sagrado Corazón in June.
El Pilar Refuge
Located between pine woods and laurel forests, this place is popular as a large
recreation area where the island people come to spend the weekend with their
families. There is a recreation park here where you can light a fire and cook,
there is also drinking water and toilets and camping is allowed.
Many visitors park their cars in the area and go hiking. The Pico Birigoyo summit
at 1,808 m is located beside the refuge and is the first cone of the large chain
of volcanoes that emerge in the form of a ridge in the inappropriately named
Cumbre Vieja or old summit. From the summit, Tenerife's Mount Teide can be seen
far off in the distance and the eye loses itself in the lava landscapes of the
volcano trail below.
Copyright. Asociación
para el Desarrollo Rural de la Isla de La Palma (ADER-La
Palma).
|